Improvement jn ssdsng boots and shoes



' To all whom't't mag concern:

NITED STATE PATENT OF ICE,

. IMPROVEMENT in stoma BOOTS ANDSHQES.

specification'forming flatter Letters Patent No. 79,733, dated July 7,1scs.

Be it known that I, HENRY T. DAGGETT, of South Braintree, in the county of Norfolk, and State of Massachusetts, have invented an Improvement in Siding. Up Boot-Legs; and

I do hereby declare that the following, taken in connection with the drawing which accompanies and forms part of this specification, is a description of my invention sufiicient to ena-v ble those skilled in the art to practiceit.

In siding up boot-legs the'pieces of leather, cut to properform, are laid one upon the other with the outer surfaces together, (the narrow welt being between the edges to be stitched togeth er,) and it is always desirable to bring the row of stitches as near as possible to the edge consistently with security against breakingthrough of the stitches when the leg is turned, such close proximity of the stitches being desirable in order to prevent too great protrusion of the stitched edge within the boot-leg when the boot is finished or worn; butas the heel-counter is made of stout thick stock, and as it is therefore necessary to carry the stitches farther from the edge upon the counter to prevent them from breaking out (in turning) by. the greater strain upon them caused bythe thickness and rigidity offthe counter-leather, thestitches are run equally far from the edge along the whole length of the leg, it being impractical to stop the stitchforming mechanism when the counter-is reached in order to change the distance of the stitchg;

forming line from the edge, and equally it practical underithe present method of siding up to change the edge-gage (which regulates the distance of the edge from the pathof the,

needle) during the sewing process.

The object of my invention is to so arrange a sliding gage that it may be readily slid back by the operator without stopping the machine;

the edge-gage being clamped by the position .of the actuating mechanism without the use of any specific clamping device, so that while sewing very near-the edge all along the bootleg down to the counter the gage may be instantly slipped back when the counter is reached; and my invention consists in combining a sliding gagewitha' mechanism for throwing it back (while the sewing is progressing) to a determined distance, corresponding to" the difference between the distance at which the stitches on the. counter should-be run and that at which it is desirable to place the stitches between the'top of the boot-leg and the coun- 'ter.

The drawing represents the edges of a bootleg thus sided up and a gage with mechanismv for throwing it back. v i A shows an edgeview of the boot-leg; B, a plan of the edge," 0, a plan of the. gage mechanism; D, a vertical section thereof. a denotes the back leather, and bthe front leather,-

of the boot-log; c,'the'lini,ng cemented to the inner porticmthereof; d, the welt'inserted between the adjacent surfaces of a and b, the

edges ot'the two pieces to be stitched together. being cut to match, and the surfaces which are,

to be outward in the finished boot being placed together to be stitched. e denotes the heel counter or stifi'ener, formed of hard thick stock to give .properirigidity' to the boot-leg at theheel. denotes; the gage, again stwhich the edge of the combined pieces :are heldfor the action of the stitch-forming mechanism. This gage is mounted and fslidesin guides 'h, and on a horizontal plate, ,t', and at its rear end it is jointed tofan arm,:7t, which; is connected by a link, I, with a lever, m, saidlever being. fulcrutned at a to an upright, 0, against the inher face of which the end of the arin 7a is drawn by'a spring, 10. ,Theinner end of the gage.

{and through 'a slot, s, inthe lever m, this tsp indle having at its upper end a screw-thread, upon which works a nut, t, the position of the "nut determining the extent of upward movement of the lever. \Vhen in normal position v the arm is is in horizontal line with the gageslide), and the front or guiding face of the 'fgage'i's projected out, so as to be in position for guiding the edge of. the boot-leg above the heel-counter, it being held in such position by" t the position of the arm k, as denoted by the' red lines atD.

Now,when theleg is fed along and the stitching reaches the counter (where such stitching should extend farther in from the edge, as before described) the operator lifts the lever'm,

thereby causing the link'l to lift the arm kinto inclined position, the gage j being thereby left free to be drawn back by the spring 12, so

that, the stock being still held up to the gage,

the stitching will be effected at the required distance from the edge of the counter, the nut t stopping the lever, and thereby the gage, as will be readily understood. Thus the space between the seam and the edge is left desirably narrow where the stock is thin and soft, and is made as wide as may be necessary across the counter. The gage-plate t is made with adjusting-slots u, to regulate by means of screws the distance of the main line of stitch ing from the edge of the stock, and: by means of the screw-nut t the change of width at the counter may be made greater or smaller, in accordance with the thickness of the counter By these means it will be readily seen that the siding up of boot-legs may be much more satisfactorily effected than with a stationary gage.

The specific mechanism may be varied,though I consider the arrangement shown to be substantially the best one.

I claim- For use in siding up boots and shoes, the combination of the gage f with the mechanism for changing its position, substantially as and for the purpose setrforth. HENRY '1. DAGGETT.

, Witnesses: J. B. CROSBY, FRANCIS GOULD. 

